What's new in 2018

Hello! Lest you think, due to my lack of blog updates, that West Delta is defunct or just a web page holding some photos of PV arrays, rest easy my friends! Be assured I am still in business, working independently but with various smaller contractors, providing them with quality, efficient designs for their projects.

I have changed some things. After 5 years of almost exclusively designing solar projects, I've decided to move away from the industry, having suffered many affronts and watched it change from an idealistic, forward-looking endeavor to one bursting at the seams with charlatans and sales vultures. As much as the corporate buzzword get on my nerves, they don't call it the solarcoaster for nothing. In my opinion, the solar industry will start doing well when it accepts the fact that it's just another building trade and requires the planning and working within it's limitations like any other trade. Stop with the sales pitches. Stop outsourcing your plans to foreign countries to make it as cheap as possible. Stop the business model that pays contracted installers as little as possible. It's unsustainable and unfair. We all deserve to make a living off of our labor.

With all of that and the bag of cheeto, I've decided to focus less on PV for now and more on my other expertise, which is an older and more stable industry: fire sprinklers. The fire sprinkler industry is enjoying somewhat of a boom, both due to increased consciousness from some of the horrifying, deadly fires we've had and the successive adoption of the 2012 international building code, which requires fire sprinklers in most new structures, including new residential projects.

You'll come across the occasional naysayer regarding fire sprinklers, saying they don't do anything to put out fires or they cause structural damage from leaks, but none of that is accurate. While it's true that the main goal of a sprinkler system is to get occupants safely out of a burning structure, they often, even usually, do put out the fire, ultimately minimizing structural damage. A properly installed system will not leak, and unless you look for it, most people will never even notice that 3" white (or other color) disc on the ceiling. In addition, the cost of the systems are generally offset by savings on homeowner's insurance.

All that said, I do still work with some solar contractors, putting together permit packages or doing simple sales package layouts, and I am still available to do engineering analysis for you to find out your system potential, payback time estimates, etc so you can determine if it's worth the cost and effort. There's really no way to overemphasize the importance of good planning.

Thanks for reading! Happy 2018
Ben

How to Engineer a PV System, Part 1

Quickmount classic shingle mount

If you wouldn't mind, come along here with me for a few minutes, let's get the heck away from this concoction of competition, plagiarism and stultiloquy that haunts our transactions like the ghost of some dead profit. Instead, let's talk about what it takes to build something real, rather than talk talk talk about how wonderful it will all be someday in the future if we just follow this easy plan. 


Just like your first ride on a bike wasn't your best one, the first bridge ever built was a piece of junk by today's standards. I mean, would you drive across it? Same with solar, from the modules to the electronics to the mounting hardware. 


Before Quickmount innovated a high-quality aluminum sheet flashed mount, it was pretty common to see crappy roof attachments like this:

Okay, so maybe it won't leak if it's all done right, but any roofer will agree, you're way safer installing a flashing with this. 

Quickmount was one of the first to make a nice, solar-specific integrated mount and flashing, and they still make them. By using a flashing like this, whatever type of roof you have, your chances of roof leaks goes down substantially. Ironridge makes a good one, too.

Of course, now everyone and their uncle has jumped in on the PV mount business, some with better results than others, and I think that's just fine. I mean, we Americans love the play of a healthy competition, don't we? We would never allow a couple-few businesses to monopolize an entire industry, right? That would stifle the drive for creativity and lower the bar of innovation, leaving us on a downward spiral of mediocrity. Not in America, not in my country, no way. We live by our own decisions, with pride in our work.

The important thing is to use the right thing in YOUR situation, which takes an understanding of the system as  a whole. This is just an example of a single component of a PV system.

An Ironridge mounting systems

What makes a good roof-mount footing?

Well, for one thing, it should obviously never leak, so quality of materials, construction, and installation all play in.

What else? How about being easy to install correctly? Is the price reasonable? What about how it looks?

Wait, there's more...do they work with your rafters, sheathing, flat roofs, shingle, tile, etc? Are they approved for use with the rails and panels you want to use? And speaking of rails, how far apart will you be able to space the mounts? If you're installing a ground-mount, like with a carport, how does spacing affect the diameter of the post holes?

Yes, it's complex, and in engineering, you're always just choosing the best option. In real life, there is no perfect choice. Anyone who tells you differently is living in a fantastical world of black and white and is a liar. Stay away from them, they're ghosts just waiting to haunt your future.

What's crazier is that I've been engineering these systems for various contractors for years now, and almost every job I do has some different part, whether it's panels, rails, attachments, footings, wiring, inverters, or whatever. 

It's a changing industry. From my perspective, it is getting better, but to make sure your system gets built right, you'll get better odds by working with a company that strives for quality.

What if the power goes out?

Many people have asked me what happens when the power goes down.

Naturally, having an electricity plant at your home, you would like to think you could continue basking in air conditioning, watching movies and sipping iced cocktails while your non-solar neighbors stare on in envy.
Well, that dream can actually become a reality, but it's not the reality for the majority of grid-tied solar producers.

What? The salesperson didn't mention that?
Well, in their defense, they probably didn't know that. If you want an opinion about your plumbing, you go ask a plumber. Not a plumbing sales rep. Same thing goes for solar. At West Delta, we're designers and engineers, and we can give you real answers. 

You see, solar electricity CAN be used directly, after it's converted from direct current (DC) to alternating current (AC) by your inverter (this article explains how solar works. I could geek out and stay up all night writing my own, but this would still be better); HOWEVER, if you were thinking you wanted to have some independence from the grid, there are some things to consider:
The National Electrical Code (NEC) standards require that grid-tied inverters shut down more or less instantly in the event that the grid goes down. I think anyone can understand why by putting themselves in the shoes of the lineman who's climbed up the pole to try to diagnose or repair the power. The last thing s/he wants is to have an unknown number of power sources feeding the wires being working on, so the NEC requires inverters to be U.L. tested to basically turn off as soon as there's a loss of voltage from the grid (called anti-islanding).
To maintain voltage from an active system (under sunlight), you generally have to connect your inverter to a something to disconnect the inverter from the grid (and meet listing requirements), while feeding a separate voltage source to the inverter to trick it out of it's shutdown state. Of course, trying to set up that system yourself isn't worth the time and effort, unless that's your thing.

So far, there are maybe 4 or 5 ways to do it:

One is to use an inverter with an optional onboard plug, and hook up some power strips and extension cords. Limited to a certain wattage, but relatively inexpensive.
Another is to set up separate system (maybe using microinverters) and install a manual transfer switch to feed your electrical panel when the power goes out. Of course, where does the power go when it's disconnected? Nowhere, unless you create a dedicated set of appliances that only need to run during daylight hours.
You could add batteries and an off-grid inverter, which might make sense if you were meeting different needs, such as in agricultural or industrial applications.
But for the most part, you would want to add batteries anyway, so you'd be able to use your lights in the dark, run the refridgerator, etc.
If you already have solar, you can add an AC-battery backup coupler (here's one) to an existing grid-tie inverter system, but it's going to be pricey.
In my opinion, the best value in the long run is to buy an inverter like an SMA Sunny Island, this new Schneider Electric inverter, or one of these purpose-built packages, are pretty sweet.

So those are some of the ways you can share your power with the grid, and still have some for yourself when the grid fails. I hope this helps, and as always, you can send your questions to info@westdelta.net

Get more space and less bill with a solar awning!

West Delta is an authorized reseller of Lumos Solar products. While we can get you an awning done without this high-end, amazing trellis-effect panel, it's hard not to drool over this one.

Awnings are awesome. They give you indoor/outdoor living space, a shade structure, carport or window treatments. By adding electricity production, you can raise the value per square foot of your outdoor living investment.

So what about the power company?

You might have wondered, what happens with my utility company? What happens when I start making my own power?

Most of you probably know or have heard that your meter starts running backward, but what does that mean as far as your new relationship with the electrical grid as an energy provider and not just a consumer?

This is no small question, and subject to changes in the law, whims of elections, and pressures from lobbyists, but the trend in many states is toward requiring utilities to credit energy produced by solar and other clean, small-scale technology. It is the future of our energy systems, and all waves begin as swells. I think we can expect more to come.

So here's how it happens: 

Your photovoltiac (PV) system will produce a varying number of kilowatt-hours throughout the year - less in the winter, more in the summer. So PG&E (as a typical example) designates you as a net energy metering (NEM) customer,  and bills you the "amount due for the monthly minimum electric charges and a snapshot of your current and year-to-date charges and credits." 

At the end of the year, you'll get an "NEM true-up" statement, where you will either be ahead or behind. If your system is sized to take care of your entire load, what you get or give will be minimal. If you produced a surplus, they'll pay you wholesale prices for the difference. 

It's important to pay attention to your bill, and call PG&E with any concerns. It's especially important if you make any big changes in your load, like adding an air conditioner, high-energy lighting, or putting in a pool, like this guy.

It's usually better to cover your load or less. For a lot of people, putting in a smaller system that takes their net usage out of the higher cost "teirs", keeping them in the lowest $ per kWh level, makes the most sense. Sometimes, due to limited roof space, obstructions, shading, or other factors, there's just not enough space on a roof for PV to payoff. 

West Delta can help you find out with a free assessment of your home or building's potential. We can do residential or commercial analysis, and get it installed for a great price per watt.

How To Get It

Let me say it up front: Solar electric systems aren't cheap. Over time, they can be a great investment. But depending on you're goals, your energy usage, and where you are, the initial outlay for a large residential system can be up to $60,000 or more.

Purchasing Solar

Cash, loans, leases, power purchase agreements, etc. don't change the fact that you're purchasing a photovoltaic system. The difference is in the cost and service level. 

Cash

As is usually the case, paying cash is the best deal for you. You reap all the benefits of rebates and incentives, your system pays off the fastest, and you aren't tied to a 20 year legal agreement to pay a loan/service company. 

You also get the responsibility of maintaining the system (which mostly consists of spraying the panels off with a hose a couple time a year). 

If a component fails (rare but not unheard of), you or your contractor will need to fill out paperwork etc to have a replacement sent (most panels and inverters have 10 to 25 year warranties), and change out the bad part.

Good solar contractors will guarantee the quality of their labor for a reasonable amount of time, will take care of all the permits and applications, and many will maintain the system for a small fee.

Loans

The only difference here is cost. You get rebates, incentives, and maintenance, but you're system payoff time gets longer since now you're paying loan fees. Some banks are offering low rates on loans for PV systems.

Leases

Several full service solar companies are offering leases, and now leases are available directly through solar installers, energy companies, or even directly from banks. 

There are different service levels available at different costs, but most include the installation (either by their own crews or by subcontractors), maintenance, and cost of repairs if necessary. The biggest draw for leases is the no money down aspect.

A "power purchase agreement", or PPA, is very similar to a lease except that you pay a fixed price per kilowatt-hour (kWh) produced versus a fixed rate lease. Both rates usually increase over time.

Leasing is the most expensive option in the long run, and is essentially adding an additional power company to your bill schedule. You also lose your ability to choose your own contractor, and often have to deal with pushy sales people.



PV systems, properly installed with quality components in the first place, are known to operate without major problems for over 30 years, so despite the promise of a hassle-free experience (they never are when you're dealing with construction), don't let yourself be rushed into a long-term contract. It never hurt anyone to spend a little time considering the options.

One more thing: these systems do pay themselves off, sometimes after only a few years. It's the main reason banks are motived to lease them. 

In fact, for the opportunity to win your business, West Delta will give you a free analysis, working directly with you to size your system and tell you how long until it pays for itself.

Solar Incentives Explained

First, the bad news:

Most if not all of the available state incentives, despite the advertising, have been used or reserved.

But now, the good news: 

The federal tax credit is available through 2016, and allows you to take 30% of the cost of the system off your taxable income, has no cap, and can be carried over. It applies to "labor costs for on-site preparation, assembly or original system installation, and for piping or wiring to interconnect a system to the home." Which basically means the price of the entire system and installation, assuming you aren't ordering equipment yourself. These credits don't apply to producers with lease agreements.


This incentive can mean significant savings for you in your long-term electrical system investment, paying you back earlier through your tax return, and significantly shortening the time it takes your system to pay for itself. And, just think about this: you are essentially purchasing your electricity for the next 25 years all at once. 

Here's the bottom line...the cost of electricity will go up. The range in the above referenced study is between 1.9% and 6.3%, so let's pick a number about in the middle and say 4% increase per year. This means, if you paid $2,500 this year, you'll be paying $3,000 in five years, and $3,700 in ten. The rise is exponential, which means not only does the cost increase, the rate of increase increases. In 20 years, you'll be paying $5,500, or close to $500 a month.

When you buy a solar PV system and make your own power, you are buying the security of knowing what you'll be paying for electricity for a long time.